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Friday, Nov. 10th

As all of the numerous campsites in the area were closed, I had spent the night at a parking lot near Capo Testa. It had been raining all night but eased off at dawn. I got up early and went for a walk to the cape. The sky was still full of clouds and the rocks and the sea were lit by some eerie light. I have been here before a couple of times but Capo Testa is one of these magical locations that make me return whenever I am in the area.

First thing I did was walk up to the lighthouse from where you have a great overview on the coast and Corsica just across the strait of Bonicacio. The Capo Testa peninsula is sort of a mini- mountain range build from limestone rocks that have been given the most fantastic forms by the wind. It is a wonderland of rocks sculptures and when the light is good shimmers in fantastic colours. Now it was just plain grey but the often bizarre forms of the stones still left me in awe.

I was all alone in this wonderland – besides a bunch of goats – and went for a hike. As there are no paths leading alongside the coast I had to search my way through the labyrinth of rocks and macchia and had to do the odd climb. After a while I reached the Valle de Luna (the “moon valley”). There were a few primitive shacks built into the rocks and a extensively decorated pole was set up in the middle of the small plain in front of the sea. Obviously, this old hippie settlement was still inhabited.

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