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In fact, the forecast for Tuesday, October 23rd was excellent. A solid 4 feet @ 15 seconds groundswell was promised, together with light offshore winds and sunshine. The tides were cooperating too with high tide around noon. So I was pretty excited when I left our flat in the morning for the short drive to the beach. It was still overcast and the air was cool when I parked my van. The long missed sound of braking waves replaced the humming of the engine and I hastily made the short walk to the beach. The sight there was a – for me – a new one. I mean, I had seen this place with before with decent waves breaking. But the clean and solid peaks that now had materialized here were a new experience. Long ground swell lines were visible all over the bay, bruised by a light offshore and faces of set waves were clearly overhead. There were just a handful of guys out but the parking was filling rapidly. So I grabbed my 6.5 and paddled out for a first session.
Peaks were bit shifting and a bigger board would have been a better choice as the waves at the peak to the south where I was out were a bit difficult to paddle in and the lineup filled up quickly, amongst others with a few guys on SUPs who clearly had an advantage in catching the waves further outside.
After that first session I went for a walk and checked the reef further north. It was delivering the usual right and a longer left, both pretty hollow and with the odd bomb clearing the lineup. Further into the bay a long left pointbreak had sprung to life and further down into the normally calmer parts of the gulf more breaks materialized where dead flat bathing beaches are the norm during 90% of the days.
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