[home] [trips] [trip matrix] [films] [links]

The deep sun gave an intense lighting to the bizarre volcanic landscape. Black lava fields to the right and yellow sand dunes to the left boardered my path. Walking on the soft sand with that heavy load of media stuff on my shoulders was a bit strenuous so I was happy when I reached an area consisting of soil and stones. But I had missed the main path and getting to the coast meant to walk over a lot of loose stones. I reached the ocean right at the inside break and had a stunning overview on the middle break and the point itself, all contrasted by the dominant mass of the volcano in the back. There was still no wind and clean lines rolled in in perfevt shape, wrapping around the point, reforming at the middle break and continuing all the way to the inside.

The shore was rocky as expected and the waves broke pretty close to shore. The inside was shoulder high, middles had headhigh waves and the point was definitely overhead. Very few boats were anchored offshore and few surfers spread out through the three lineups. The longboarders among our crew had taken comand above middles while the ones with a stick played at the point.

The tide was a bit low allready but the boys had a good time on the long rights, either styling on their tankers or carving with their sticks. The regular footers clearly had an advantage as the waves had speed and power even with that smaller size. A small crew of local surfers had camped on the island and now hurried to get to savour the crowdless fun waves before the ferry would arive with its load of boatless and wave hungry surfers.

Clowds started to cover the sky and dampen the beautifull morning colours. They came from the north. This was not a good sign as northerly winds would be onshore. And indeed, the sea lost its glassy consitence and the perfection got disturbed by the first ripples.

next page >>>