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The onshore was still light, when the first ones of a long caravane of surfers came running along the path. The ferry had arrived. They quickly got into their wetsuits and waxed their boards. The wind gained force when the first of them entered the water.

The boat people started to return to their vessels.

The clowds started to get blown away by the still increasing wind. When the sun returned it lit a lineup of about 20 surfers fighting for the now windblown but still solid waves. The tide was very low now which meant that you had to time the exit from your wave very well in order to avoid slamming into dry lava rocks. The surfing level was very high and the guys clearly knew what to do out there.

I left the now packed point and walked back to the inside. Here three surfers made the best out of the now hip high waves, that still offered some decent rides.

My empty stomach now started to remind me that it was a long way to the next bar so I returned to the pier in the hope that the ferry would come soon. There I met a guy from London who must have seen my starvation because he offered to give me a ride back to town with the private rented boat that was comming to pick him up. I gladly agreed and entered the tiny rubber boat with him an his buddies. The boat had to drive through a now fairly rough sea and I sat on the windward side. That meant that I got wetted to the bones from the combination of bumpy sea and the wind carrying a lot of spray.

I didn´t bother much ´cause I had been privileged to savour a calm morning because I knew some guys who had a boat too........

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