|
I knew that this still was a tricky combination but the mixture of having not surfed for already too long and the fine weather made me hit the motorway at Friday night. It turned out that the swell direction – it was almost straight south – was problematic especially with the strong wind from the south. The west facing parts of the coast got enough swell with an acceptable angle but had to deal with a not very helpful sideshore wind.
The northwest facing parts of the coast unsurprisingly handled the wind much better but had difficulties to catch enough of the south swell. A few kilometres – and at some places a few hundred meters - up or down the coast made a crucial difference to wave size and quality and made finding the best sandbars a tricky task that easily results in endless driving and spot checking. These search missions often start and end at always the same place.
This was also the first location I drove to Saturday morning for a first check. Out at the sea larger swell was visible but mostly running parallel to the coast. The jetty managed to bend some of these waves enough and redirect them to the beach. But the angle of the approaching waves was far from perfect and the result was up to hip-high waves breaking either too soft or closing out. At least it was sunny and the wind was offshore, so I paddled out for a longboard session, which turned out almost ok.
continue >>>
|
