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The plan was to move the van as little as possible and hang out at the beach or go for some bicycle rides. Late Sunday morning we drove the ten minutes to our favourite beach. It was sunny and hot and there was no wind. The tide was right, which means pretty high and the ocean was flat. We went for a swim and hung out at the beach. When the tide was close to its peak a tiny one-foot wave started breaking above the rocks and I grabbed my longboard and walked out. Board shorts, no leash and knee-high, barely surf-able made it a better swimming session but I manged to catch a few ride-able waves that only had the disadvantage to break in 30 cm deep water over the rough rocks which made it difficult to finish the ride ´cause you either scratched the fin on the rocks or had to jump onto these rocks which wasn´t that good for bare feet.
Monday and Tuesday we followed the same pattern: get up late, have breakfast, drive 10 minutes to the beach and go for a swim. This time it was only swimming, as the ocean was flat as a lake. Wednesday had a better forecast but we still followed the same time schedule as mid tide would be around noon and with lower tides there would brake nothing. So we reached the beach at noon, the tide was still a bit low but some one meter waves were rolling in. I paddled out leash-less and in trunks again but this time both was wrong. It was overcast and pretty chilly and due to the still pretty low tide the majority of the waves broke closeout which meant that my board was swept on the rocks with furore a couple of times. So I finished the session before the ideal tide (and the arrival of masses of other surfers). We had an appointment with a real estate agent to have the umpteens look at ridiculously overprized houses in the area. We returned to the beach in the early evening. The wind had almost completely gone and the two lineups at the beach were almost empty. The tide was still high enough to create the odd nice wave so I paddled out to the rock reef. It was almost glassy, set waves were chest high and I was out alone having fun on my longboard.
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