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That beachbreak is one of the few beginner friendly spots in the area and, on the right tide, can offer some fun waves. But the real thing is the point and there I moved around noon. The tide was still very low, and I was once again greeted by empty perfection.
To save some bruises I decided to wait for a higher tide. In the early afternoon the first locals arrived and some nice waves. At mid tide some extraordinary good sets rolled in – glorious not in a way of being super big or gnarly or hollow but how they broke in machine-like perfection – but generally the swell was a bit inconsistent. But any complaint would have been completely inappropriate.
I paddled out in the late afternoon and had some fun rides. The icing on the cake was a school of large dolphins passing just about 100 meters further out from where I sat in the lineup. This was just brilliant. Sunny weather all day, air temperatures like a few thousand kilometres further south, a light offshore breeze all day, a fun sized swell meeting a perfectly orientated reef, a “crowd” of barely ten people, marine mammals passing the lineup as a side-kick and endless days. I liked this way of coldwater surfing very much!
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