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The night was cold, but I had a good sleep and woke up to sunrise refreshed and unusually – for this time of the day – eager to surf. I opened the door of the van and was gret by the moon still hanging in the steel blue sky. A bunch of locals was down on the beach and went for a swim. I found this a bit inappropriate and when I looked back to my van I was confirmed by the thick layer of ice on my windscreen. This wasn´t the kind of weather to go out for a swim, especially not naked. But the wind was straight offshore and much lighter now and there were still some swell lines on the sea. It seemed very appropriate to switch into thick layers of neoprene and paddle out for a surf.
So, I had a quick coffee – can´t do anything without this in the morning - and a cookie and put on the 6mm suit, booties and gloves and waxed my board. Most other surfers were still asleep in their vans and in the first rays of the sun crawling over the horizon I walked along the dunes to that righthander at the jetty. The ground was still frozen and a bit slippery, but I managed to get down to the beach without any embarrassing falls.
It was almost glassy and the odd hip-high peeler rand along the edge of the bank. The tide was very low and I could walk almost to the tip of the jetty on dry ground and from there reached the lineup with a handful of paddle strokes. There was nobody else out and the sea still had double digit temperatures which made it a much more comfortable place compared to the firm land. I had a nice little longboard session.
After a while two other surfers joined me and the swell became a bit inconsistent. So, I took a last wave in and went back to the van. To my great relief I found a full gas bottle (the other van had gone empty just when my morning coffee was finished) in the van and so could cook me another coffee. The sun shone straight into my van and had enough power to warm me up and I very much enjoyed breakfast with a beautiful view.
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