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[Ep01 - The Calm p3] [Ep01 - The Calm p5]

2020-Calm-04h

But the main hinderance was the size of the swell. It had a lot of energy and due too the shape and size of the bay waves rarely peaked properly as the water rushing from one breaking peak was interfering with another peak and waves thus were breaking very unpredictable and often so late, that they were just massive closeouts.

This is a very common feature in this bay, helping to increase wave size through refractions and interferences but generally making the proper waves selection a big gamble. Now it was more of a Russian Roulette and paddling out alone was a herculean challenge. At least the sun was making it above the inland mountains now and turned the so far icy cold morning into something much more comfortable.

Normally it would be best to just wait for the swell to drop a little bit and the sun to warm up the air to the typical Mediterranean mild winter temperatures. But the rising sun was also killing the light offshore and slowly but inevitably turn it onshore.

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