banner-1090a1

[home] [trip matrix] [Stories] [trips] [films] [local heroes]

[Twa Hav p39] [Twa Hav p41]

2-oceans-40h
2-oceans-40vl

Then I got a text message. My buddies had arrived at the parking lot and decided that they wanted to go some other place with less people. I decided to join them but had to wait underneath my tree for the rain squalls to finish. While waiting I watched the waves getting more consistent and the lineup adopting to the larger size of the swell. The size of the swell now was good news for the other spot that needs a little bit more juice.

So I drove back to where I had spent the night. On arrival another rain squall was pouring down and a nice little set rolled in. I joined my two companions in the lineup but the swell was very inconsistent. We split the few significant waves that made it to the cobblestone reef and formed small but fun lefts but lulls were long and when two other guys on longboards entered the lineup not much talking was needed. We left and went to another place.

As expected that spot milked much more out of the swell. The lefts had a fun size with the odd bigger set rolling through. Four guys were out and at the beginning all looked good. Then the two longboarders from the previous spot appeared. The more experienced one of them was cool, but the one in full winter rubber (hood, bear claw gloves, booties) showed no interest in looking right before paddling into a wave and regularly dropped and messed up particularly one goofie-footer´s rides. But after a while the two on the tankers left and for a while things became easy again until four other guys arrived.

This wave doesn´t tolerate many surfers in the lineup. Four are already the max. Sets come usually with two waves and the paddle out to the peak is easy. Would have been a clever move to install a rotational system instead of pushing each other too deep and dropping in.

Continue >>>

2-oceans-40vr
SDK-Blue-1090a3