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[The Grass] [The Grass p142]

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Saturday

I had spent the night on a parking close to the Gwithian beaches. When I woke up in the morning it was sunny and an easterly wind was blowing. It seemed all set up for a good day of surfing and so the first thing I did this morning was checking the waves. They were pretty much non-existent. But no panic, according to the forecast the day was supposed to start with a long period but very small swell that was due to increase in the afternoon to a 1.3 meter @ 12 seconds. The wind should stay offshore all day. So, I relaxed and made myself some breakfast.

Around noon the offshore got stronger but the swell was still pretty small. It looked good from the distance but in fact was barely surf-able. I nevertheless couldnīt resist and paddled out at a peak near Sandy Acres that looked o.k. Turned out that I didnīt surf just this one peak but a couple as the strong wind pushed me along the beach. I had a few rides but nothing worth the detour.

So, I finished and went for a walk through the dunes down to Gwithian. Either the waves were bigger there or the swell must have kicked in (in the end it turned out that both was correct). Set waves were breaking clearly overhead there und were kept in form by the stiff offshore. That offshore didnīt make it easier though as the waves were breaking very hollow and fast often at the border to close-out. I watched for a while and then headed back to the Acres.

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