|
Monday morning it was raining again and it was grey and unpleasant.
But the wind was – as forecasted – a light south and a 1.5 meters @ 13 seconds north swell was promised. As I was still suffering from that cold I felt pretty weak again this morning. So, I decided to get my systems running and walk up the hill for a check of North Bay which would be the place to go with these conditions. Up there my circulation had sprung into some reasonable mode and I was eager to see what kind of waves were on offer.
But the tide was still way too high and the waves splashed against the sea wall without reaching any surf-able form before. But one thing was clear: there was swell. So, I had a couple more hours before it would get worth paddling out here and I had some time to kill. I decided to have a look at the point again.
I left the board in the hostel as the tide was dropping and I expected the swell to be too small to light up the point. What a mistake. What a bloody mistake. I realized this at the moment I reached the cliff´s edge. A nice five-waves set approached the reef and was wrapping around the point in the most perfect way.
continue >>>
|
