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[Swell Chase p17] [Swell Chase p19]

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It took me a while until my frozen fingers got warmed up enough to get sufficient coordination for driving a car. I drove down the steep descent carefully and parked my car at the visitors parking lot at the outskirts of the little town. To my big surprise there were no parking fees demanded (at this time of the year). I quickly walked down the short distance to the old part of the town with its fancy little houses cuddling against the hills.

The sheltered parts of the bay hadn´t been visible from up the hills so I was curious how the scars here would handle the swell. From previous visits, I knew that there was a potentially epic left point break setup at the northern end of the bay which had a lot of protection from northerly winds by high cliffs. Then there is a flat scar in the middle of the bay that can produce nice rights.

Both breaks are very sensitive to tides and swell direction. The first view on the bay revealed that the point once again did not work. The swell was too big and waves broke on the outer parts of the reef where they were fully exposed to the gale (and waves were way too big). The sheltered parts of the reef were swept by massive white water walls with the odd o.k. looking reform.

The scar to the middle looked better with some nice running rights. But it was still unruly, big, cold and lonely.

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