[home] [trip matrix] [Stories] [trips] [films]

[Transitions] [Transitions p3]


Transition times

Early September is the time when you start to realize that the days become remarkably shorter up in the north. It is the time, when you realize that summer is over once again. It is the end of the very early and close to midnight sessions. But it is also the beginning of wind and swell blessed fall and it is the peak of the hurricane season. This means a good chance of Atlantic ground swells making it around Scotland and reaching the coasts of the north-eastern part of the North Sea while the sea is still warm and winds are usually light, with luck from the east.

It is a good time to surf. So once again, double digit periods where shown on the forecast sites (if you knew where to look). The forecasted swell heights were tiny, rarely reaching a foot but size doesn´t matter that much here. It´s all about the period and the local winds and the swell direction and the specific orientation of sandbars and reefs. And it is a lot about experience gained in numerous successful und – quite often – less successful trips.

So there was a whole week on offer with these double digit swells hiding underneath the single digit local wind wobble. Mid-week looked best, concerning the swell, but looked crucial concerning the local winds. The wind direction would be side to side-onshore on the usual suspect spots at the west coast and would blow the swell to a wobbly mess. And you never know how much of the swell would reach the north shores.

continue >>>