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[Sick Days D3-22] [Sick Days D3-24]


On the walk down to the eastern jetty I did not get any idea about how it was over there as obviously all ridden waves were rights and riders were getting out of sight behind the jetty right after the take-off. So I was pretty curious when I finally reached the jetty and walked up the few steps to the platform on top of the restaurant at the base of the seawall. I just had reached the balustrade from where I had full view on the wave when a set rolled in and a goofy-footer took off. The guy scored a fairly long and pretty fast ride. The next one did the same.

I changed position and just had switched on the camera when the next set hit the shallows. Again a goofy footer was on it and scored a little tube. This wave was obviously delivering much better and much more constant waves than the main break to the west.

It was way more difficult to ride though. The wave was very sucky and often on the edge of becoming a slab and the take-off had to be mastered right in front of the jetty with very little distance to the stones. Thrilling rides and harsh wipeouts were the consequences, mixed up with the odd playful ride. The line-up was pretty full and there was the odd drop in but all together everybody got his share of waves.

The rain did not come back, the wind stayed offshore and the swell showed no signs off backing off. I kept an eye on the other break and after a while decided to go back there.

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