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I wanted to spend the night here to be back at the beach early next morning to take advantage of a very good wind and swell forecast. I would just have a few hours before having to leave to get to Rennes and pick up my wife and daughter at the airport in the afternoon. The time slot for a surf session would be just a few hours. So, I went to my favourite bar and restaurant, the Café du Port to have some food and a beer and went to bed early.
Friday morning, I got up before dawn. It was chilly but windless, as forecasted. I drove up the hills to La Palue and reached the cliffs at first light. The swell was still there – again the forecast was right – and it was pretty solid. Typical for a high period ground swell there was quite some time in between set waves. Down at sea this meant, that there were solid waves all the time with massive sets every 15 minutes.
Conditions were difficult though, as the tide was a bit too high and the sandbars were a bit overwhelmed by the power and size of the swell. The parking was nevertheless bustling with excited surfers either just arriving or preparing to paddle out. A few early birds were already out in the lineup.
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