|
The left had enough to offer to keep the crew happy but a point is a point and still more desirable for most surfers. So, when another larger set came in and provided enough imagination, one of the chaps paddled over again.
A clean-up set at the left indicated that a set with enough size and juice and the right direction was approaching and indeed the guy managed to catch a wave at the point. His ride was a bit sketchy though as the line between getting washed onto the rocks and losing the wave on the shoulder was very narrow. So, he managed to do a couple of half turns and ride the wave pretty far into the inside without any particularly thrilling turns.
A good ride to get started and feel how the wave works. The next ride would surely be better. But he got no second chance as the point turned flat after this set again.
I returned to the van and drove to the end of the road to have a look on the bay of Goulien. Long swell lines were running all along the bay to the beach and – as far as I could judge from the distance – were providing a lot of fun at the beach. Probably should have stayed there. Anyhow, it got dark and I drove to Morgat.
continue >>>
more photos from the bay can be found here
|
