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Out there I became aware of the following:
1. Once in a while bigger sets rolled in and gave a hint of what the swell that was supposed to arrive in the late afternoon would be: really good.
2. As so often at this beach, the majority of waves were braking close-out.
3. The waves that didn´t brake close-out, were nice. Very nice in fact.
4. My wetsuit had a hole at the crotch, the water was still pretty cold and all this together did not feel very well at some sensible parts of my body.
Despite insight number 4 I stayed out as long as possible. My damaged knee was hindering me a bit as was my freezing crotch but I had fun. Quite a bit of fun to be honest, sitting out alone in a lineup of clean groundswell waves in full sunshine and a light offshore.
The hole in my wetsuit forced me to end my session a bit too early. But this was only just the beginning of the swell and there was plenty of time left. I decided to drive over to Lost Marc´h. It should be pretty good over there with this swell and wind pattern.
The tide was very low now and the result were some good-sized tubes. To be precise, the left was throwing a make-able tube and the other peaks did not really work well. As tubes are still nothing that I can surf I decided to wait for the tide getting higher and go for a walk to have a look at the cliffs further north.
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