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The rain had almost stopped now but the light was still depressing and immersed the otherwise fantastic landscape into utter bleakness. The waves though, were utterly beautiful. The tide was high now, which meant even more super-hollow and super-fast waves, some of them barely surfable.
And I wasn´t the only one having decided to join the already good-sized crowd out there. But there is plenty of room at this about two kilometres long beach and there is more than one peak. I paddled out a little bit further up at a usually a bit more protected part of the beach. It didn´t have the fully closeout cleanup sets up here but set waves were still head-high, hollow, and fast.
The lineup kept filling up and it now felt like every surfer in a 100 kilometres vicinity had come to this beach. This and the hollowness of the waves made it a challenging session for me, but it was fun. Still, I had to finish it sooner than I wanted as my back pains were returning and after about hour made it impossible for me to stay out.
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