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[Odyssey 4-07] [Odyssey 4-09]

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I followed his advice and indeed soon a set rolled in and manifested itself in three head high waves. I sat perfect, grabbed the second wave and scored a very night right that ran for about 100 metres.

A longer  set pause followed and I comfortably paddled back out without having to get the hair wet. There was still no wind at all and the sun was shining and the ocean was pure glass. I just had reached my lineup position again, when the next set appeared at the horizon, this time a bit bigger than before. I sat deepest and took off on the biggest wave of the set with a long shoulder to cruise on in front of me. But after a few metres of riding that beauty the elderly guy took off too. Instinctively I resisted barking him off and stayed close to lip where I just cruised watching the grey haired do his turns in front of me. This way we surfed that wave together for about 100 metres.

Back at the beach I met the grey haired again and he proudly showed me a silvery ornament, formed like a surfboard with a “1” engraved in it, that he was wearing. He explained that he is surfing here since 50 years and that he got the ornament because he was the first one to surf here. I was even gladder that I hadn´t complained about his drop in on that wave. Guys like him earn respect and the right to take any wave they want, even more as he had been that friendly to give me, a total stranger paddling out there for the first time, this very useful advice about positioning myself that in the end had allowed me to take that wave.

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