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And once in a while “real” surfers showed how it should be done. A few longboarders had the patience and positioning and wave selection to catch waves at the outside peak and score very long rides. The rights were offering the best opportunities, providing a large open shoulder and running from far outside all the way to the beach.
At the inside a couple of guys on shorter boards waited for leftovers or reforms. They had to deal with a lot of close outs but again patience paid off with the odd fast ride and a rare tube.
The peak on the left worked best on the inside with a quick and sectioning left. The outside looked promising at first sight too, but was mainly a fake as waves were peaking but didn´t break. Even the SUP´ers didn´t manage to catch waves here.
After a while I had seen enough. Due to the crowd factor I took my longboard and paddled out between the two main peaks. Here I needed a bit of patience but had the odd wave coming through. My waves were not running as long as the ones at the main peak but I had the advantage not having to deal with crowds and SUP flotillas. In the end this tactic resulted in a few fun rides without any hassling.
I came back to shore in the late morning with a sun burned nose and a big grin. We took the bikes and rode the short distance to Plouharnel for a late breakfast. When we got back to the van, the wind had turned onshore and the vast – it was low tide – beach was void of surfers. Just a few horse riders were galloping past the mushy waves. The magic was over and I was glad that I had got up early enough this morning.
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