|
The swell was big enough to create the typical punchy and often hollow breaking wave that makes this reef such a reliably good and popular spot. The left is easier to handle but most of the times doesn´t even get close to the juicy and fast right. And I wanted to tackle the right. On a longboard this meant treading a fine line in where to take off. Sitting a bit farther out and taking off on the shoulder would have been the best way to get into surfing this wave, but that was no real option as there was always on of the skilled locals taking off deeper.
Sitting deep enough often was too deep and meant taking set waves on the head without being able to duck-dive them. After quite a while I finally found myself in what seemed the perfect position. I took off and barely managed the drop when I suddenly heard somebody yell behind me. I hadn´t expected that it would be possible to successfully take off and go right behind my position but obviously had misjudged the situation. So, I immediately tried to get out of the way which meant I had to throw myself under the breaking lip without letting my longboard tumble into the other guy´s way.
continue >>>
|
