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I was standing up there watching this impressive display of Mediterranean ocean power on a seemingly empty sea when I suddenly spotted something tiny on a set-wave breaking in front of the small rocky island in the middle of the bay. On a closer look I realized this was a surfer, taking off on a double overhead left that had a very slaby character.
I was wondering how he had made it out because both parts of the bay were an Armageddon of huge whitewater walls and rip currents pretty much all the time. For me it would have been an impossible task even just to paddle out through this raging chaos. But the surfer out there seemed to be at ease with the conditions. On that first wave I watched him take off he soon got annihilated but reappeared in the lineup soon after just to take off on another similar sized wave.
The guy was a goofy-footer and ignored the rights (which were massive too and seemed to have a longer and better workable shoulder). To get a better look on the lefts I drove over to the northern end of the bay and walked up the rocky headland. The view from up here was fantastic. To the south stood the mighty cliffs of the cape with the Genoese watchtower on top which built a scenic background to the wide bay.
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