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Anyhow, the paddle out between the A-frame peak in the middle and the right to the south turned out to be easy. I decided to probe the right but found out that it was pretty fast, a bit too fast and hollow for the longboard I was using. But I had my first surf.
Once out there it didn´t feel much different to a session at the North Sea. 5mm wetsuit and booties were sufficient, no hood, no gloves. The first step into the unknown just has to be done.
Later in the afternoon the wind indeed turned a bit south and the waves got pretty clean. I paddled out for a second session and this time choose the left from the main peak. It was a good decision.
After that I was finished and the swell dropped rapidly. This was nothing glorious, just a solo session at average beach break waves. But I had finally caught some waves and it felt good. It was well worth changing my plans. I had a large pot of noodles and got to bed early.
Continue to chapter 6 >>>
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