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This was very serious stuff right now and surfers coming back to shore reported gnarly hold downs. At one particular set, I for the first time did not regret not having the skills / guts / fitness to be out there myself. The whole lineup was caught inside by this mighty 5-waves set and was completely cleaned up.
After 40 seconds, everybody was swept down way down the point and you could almost hear their heavy panting at the safe shore. That was a mighty display of North Atlantic ocean power, something you rather expect in winter and not during a sunny summer day.
It stayed like this for a while. Very few waves were ridden as positioning would have meant to paddle far beyond the usual lineup having to deal with quite some currents on the way out there. Waves had become a bit unruly too and as the resulting carnage wasn´t too photogenic I returned to the van to have some food.
When I returned things had cleaned up with the swell still being very, very impressive. The lineup had been sorted out a bit now and the guys still out knew what they were be doing. Some really good waves were ridden the way they should be ridden.
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