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[Summer Swell] [Summer Swell p3]


Wednesday July 26th..

After my usual breakfast of cereals and coffee I went for a walk to the point. The forecast had promised a 1.5-meter swell for the morning that should rise to 3.5 meters around noon. Period in the high single digits. Wind from easterly directions, light to pretty breezy. I had no idea what to expect from this forecast nor did I know at which tide the point would work, so I was pretty curious about what I would see when I walked up the last meters up the boulder dam.

It looked nice. Small waves were breaking in a light to non-existent wind. The tide was low and despite the small size of the swell the point formed it into some nice and long running peelers. Due to the low tide and the tiny size of the waves they were breaking over really shallow ground. I decided to wait a bit for the tide and swell to rise and walked back to the van. The odd bigger set indicated that things would get better in the course of the day.

When I returned two hours later the wind had picked up. And so had the swell. The scenery was completely different now with set waves now slightly overhead. The wind was side to side-offshore now and the waves were less clean but the point managed to give them some very good form. A boogie boarder and a surfer paddled out.

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