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The swell got slowly but constantly bigger now and the two had a couple of good rides with the surfer clearly knowing how to surf this place. He always managed to be in position for the set waves and rode them expertly and with flow all the 200 meters down the line, mixing stylish bottom turns with sharp snaps, smooth roundhouses and the odd tube.
The guy was good. Later I found out that this was Haidar Logi, currently Iceland’s best surfer and the first one trying to make a living just out of surfing.
He had brought a bunch of friends but they didnīt paddle out and this for an obvious reason: the still rising and juicy swell started to send some set waves that you did not want to face caught inside. The increasing current didnīt make things easier.
So even Heidar got tired pretty soon and returned to the beach for a break. We had a chat before I left, secretly cursing myself for not having paddled out in the morning, when the conditions were in a range that suited my skills / fitness / guts more than the actual conditions. I decided to check some other places to see if I could find something more suitable for me.
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