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I got up with first light and drove the few hundred meters to the dead end road closest to the main peak. It was absolutely calm and low tide. The peak to the left was breaking nicely but I decided to paddle out at the peak to the right, which had longer running shoulders. Due to the low tide these were running pretty fast though, at the edge of being just a closeout. I was the only one out and had fun until my body called for breakfast. Another few hundred meters away I found a bar that was open und had a café con leche and some croissants.
Back on the beach the break to the left had become even better and started to attract more and more surfers. I watched for a while and then decided to join them. The small swell was transformed to a shorter and mellower right and a longer and faster left by the perfectly shaped sandbar. For a moment I pondered paddling out to another peak a bit further south that looked good and only had one other guy out. But the waves there lined up nicely but soon lost too much energy only to collapse in a semi closeout right at the beach.
So I paddled out where everybody else was out. Despite the “crowd” of about ten other surfers out I got my share of waves. The ocean was still pretty warm and the sun and the absence of any wind added additional warmth which all together led to a very pleasant session that lasted until a light onshore wind kicked in.
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