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Due to the grom invasion I gave up my original plan of sticking to the inside and paddled straight out to the point. As expected it was hard to get any waves despite a crowd that was still pretty small for this break. But there were enough alpha guys out and particularly one guy was very dominant on his longboard despite having just one arm. Another guy with an artificial lower leg got a lot of waves two. Both of them were surfing way better than me.
At the beginning I speculated on the smaller leftovers but I either took off too deep or had to compete with a couple of young ladies on longboards. Being the gentleman that I am I did not want to fight with them for the waves and rather watched them graciously surf the medium sized ones. Then I moved farther outside hoping to catch something from the odd bigger sets. But again the guys on top of the feeding chain were too hungry and at least one of them always managed to make the drop from a deeper position.
After a while my sore back started to hinder me again and I slowly moved to the inside, hoping to catch one last wave in. But the inside had been taken over by the groms and I didn´t really want to take waves from 6 years old girls. So I watched them surf with enormous stoke and finally paddled back to shore with a big grin. The tide had become significantly higher now and already started to lessen the quality of the surf. Time to leave.
For more photos from that session click here.
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