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[EP09 - Larry] [EP09 - Larry p22]


All three breaks created some rarely seen nuggets with really good waves with the bigger sets and fun little peelers in between. Crowds were very light with maximum a handful at any peak. I decided not to waste any more time and get out as quick as possible right in front of my viewpoint. I choose the right at the jetty but was met by a lull. So, I paddled over to the sandbar in between the jetties, just as the other guys out there left.

I was on my own now here and could choose my waves without having to take any “competitors” into the calculation. Positioning was a bit tricky here as the peaks were shifting a bit and sometimes breaking at the border to closeout. I had a few fun waves until another lull left me sitting in a flat sea. But over at the jetty things looked better and so I paddled back over there just when four other surfers entered the same lineup.

I decided to leave the inside waves for them and positioned myself a bit further outside for the bigger sets that rolled in every 20 minutes. The offshore had increased and despite the warm sea it got cold out there. I started to shiver and did the odd paddling in circle to warm up a bit until finally a set appeared at the horizon. I paddled further out just in time, turned and paddled hard to drop into that wave in a critical but makeable position.

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