I found a place to park my van at the outskirts of the town but close to the beach (I couldn´t believe my luck) and hurried to get down to the sea. What I saw there confused me quite a bit. The beach I was standing on was facing east-southeast. If the forecasted swell direction of south-southwest, the swell needed to bend a full ninety degrees to reach this part of the bay. In addition, the Île du Levant lies in front of the bay in exactly the south-southwest direction the swell was coming from.
Chances for decent waves reaching this beach with the current swell direction were extremely slim. But what I saw in front of me, were by far the best waves I had ever seen in the whole region. Wherever this swell actually came from, it met the local sandbars in a perfect angle and sufficient size to create some extremely beautiful, long and quick rights with a tendency to tube. The wind being a light side-offshore in this part of the bay was the icing on the cake.
The waves were about shoulder to head-high and looked like fun and I wanted to get out there as soon as possible. On the way back to the van I turned for another check and distinguished something dark at the horizon.
continue >>>
|