[home] [trip matrix] [trips] [films] [local heroes] [links]

[Fuerte diary d6.01] [Fuerte diary d6.03]



We left the harbour in our tiny boat at about nine. After an easy but a bit cool crossing, the boys dropped me off at the pier on the island. I walked to the point to shoot some photos. Tim and Kussi were the only ones out. The waves weren´t great but sets had size and they both scored a few nice ones, before we changed to the other break.

Kussi anchored the boat and paddled the longboard to shore. I was still groggy from the bug but Kussi convinced me to paddle out. Didn´t regret that. Caught and rode a wave long enough that the paddle back to the lineup sucked out all of the little bit of strength that the persisting bug had left in my body. It was my birthday and that wave was the best birthday present thinkable.

Due to my fatigue it didn´t matter too much that I had to paddle back to shore pretty soon, because Kussi needed the board to get back to the boat and ship to the harbour to pick up Michi. Michi had just arrived at the airport and desperately needed a surf. And it pretty much looked as if this day would be his only chance for a decent  surf during his stay of only a few days on the island.

Meanwhile the lineup had become a bit more crowded. There were about 6 surfers out and Tim, Kussi´s 10 year old sun, was dominating the break, getting all the set waves and expertly ripping them into pieces.

continue >>>