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Once arrived, one immediately notices the strong contrasts, which are omnipresent and at least as impressive as the temperature gradient between Germany and the Cape Verde islands in March. Untouched nature and seemingly never-ending beaches alternate with piles of rubbish, plastics, flotsam and jetsam. All the waste partly stems from ships, and partly is being washed ashore from the African continent. In addition to these external effects, the local people also do not really treat the environment gently. Frequently, rubbish is simply being dropped into the sea or onto the beaches. Open rubbish dumps aside some dirt roads and wrecked cars in the dunes complete the picture. For Europeans, who nowadays are used to protect the environment at least to some extent, it feels strange to see the Cape Verde kids playing on the beaches in between cullet and rubbish. On the other hand, it is rather plausible, that it may be difficult to install environmental awareness among the inhabitants, as long as more than 80% of the Cape Verde people do not even possess their own toilet at home. Beautiful coloured and renovated facades in the small villages contrast strongly with the ruinous houses built in colonial style in the centre Sal Rei, and even more with the shanty towns located nearby, where mainly immigrants from poor African countries are living. The prevalent and severe poverty in these slums may hardly be conciliated with the emerging building boom, the mass tourism which is enhanced by the new direct flight connections, and the first large hotel resorts. On the few tarred roads, the picture is dominated by modern American pickup trucks, which have been purchased by foreign companies. Of course, the vast majority of the Cape Verde people does not profit thereof.
And still, wandering through Sal Rei, you will only notice open minded, good-humoured and friendly people. The Cape Verde Islands motto is “„Paz, Trabalho, Pátria“ (Peace, labour, fatherland), and this nicely fits to the habitants mind. Those who have not started their own small souvenir business in order to profit from the emerging tourism, often still go fishing, like their ancestors did some decades ago. Although they cannot compete with commercial mass fishing of foreign fleets, the Cape Verde people sometimes spend a whole week on the sea, with several men in small and primitive wooden boats that we would not even dare to enter. It is a real back-breaking job, but looking at the fishermen’s faces, you will always see them smile, and apparently, no one ever complains. The arrival of the fisher boats, which normally happens on a fixed day once a week, is celebrated like a public fair. Everyone who is able to walk joins this event on to the small pier. Especially eye-catching are the women’s colourful clothes, which almost lead to a Caribbean flair. While the fishermen are still busy presenting their catch, the bargaining starts and the women transport the fishes in large buckets on their heads to a small side road. Here, the fishes are disembowelled, cleaned and offered like on a small market place.
Late in the evening, you may meet the freshly caught fishes again. The small restaurants, which normally resemble more a barrack or a container than a proper dining location, normally all serve fresh fish – of course depending on what the fishermen have caught previously. Fish and meat is almost always served grilled – and always with the same side dishes – rice and chips. The reason is simple: Staple foods, such as rice, potatoes and bread, are rather cheap on the Cape Verde Islands, as they are state-subsidised. All more fancy groceries are luxury goods and at least as expensive as in Europe. But the average Cape Verde salary is not more than 150 – 250 € per months... Hence, even in restaurants, vegetables are only served in very small rations.
Aside the turbulences in and around Sal Rei, there is lot of things to be seen and done on Boa Vista. Some excursions are really worth the effort. On the long and sandy beaches, which surround the entire island, you may frequently discover some romantic ship wrecks. They are witnesses of the demandingly navigable waters around the island. The number of reefs is so large, that the former harbour on the east side of the island has been closed down. Too many ships did not reach the save harbour. But even in the Bay next to Sal Rei, there are a number of wrecks, which invite for a scuba dive or a snorkelling trip. Those who keep the eyes open may find giant tortoise shells in the dunes. Ocean turtles come ashore Boa Vista’s beautiful beaches in order to lay down their eggs as well as to die. For those who consider the shells remarkable, it will be a very special and unforgettable experience to share the ocean with these peaceful animals. No matter whether you go for surfing or windsurfing, these animals come quite close. Normally, there is no need to be scared of hitting one of them at full speed and having to give first aid to one of the turtles. Normally, they disappear surprisingly fast into deeper water when you come too close. Collisions are only reported very rarely…
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