[home] [trip matrix] [Stories] [trips] [films]

[Swell Chase p87] [Swell Chase p89]


Sunday morning looked very unpleasant. It was as grey as it gets and a constant drizzle wasn´t making things better. But there was almost no wind. I went to check the waves and get some breakfast. South Bay had small waves but the absence of wind helped to give them some form. There were longer lulls but occasionally a nice set rolled in.

I walked up to the Café in the former cable car station to have breakfast. This time they did not have scones. I ordered a cake instead and a cappuccino. Both weren´t that great but the view on the bay was. At least the coffee and the sugar gave me some more energy and made me feel a bit better despite the cold that still plagued me.

I needed to surf and so I decided to give it a go despite still feeling very weak. At least the small and clean swell would help saving energy as the paddle out would be very easy.

I went back to the hostel, got into my wetsuit and walked to the beach. Getting to the lineup required no effort at all, it was just a small walk and a few paddle strokes. I had a couple of o.k. waves but the sickness soon made me feel very weak again. Too weak. As the waves were far from epic I finished the session soon. There was still tomorrow with a better forecast.

continue >>>