For now, I had to make the best of another still very long winter night in the van. The heating was still only working part time and to compensate that I cooked myself a good pot of noodles. The gas cooker managed to warm up the van a little bit and the noodles warmed me up from inside and the combination helped to spend the evening in the van.
Thursday February 15th
The morning was sunny and warm, and I really liked this. The wind was a light offshore, and this was good too. Just the tide was still too low, and the still solid swell was breaking in a hybrid of extremely fast tubes and close-outs. I took my time for a decent breakfast and waited for the tide to rise.
Around noon the tide was low enough and I paddled out, again with my longboard. At the beginning I opted for the central peak but found it difficult to find and hold position due to a strong current (and again physical handicaps caused by my back). I barely caught waves here and soon moved further down in direction to the river mouth where I was a little bit more successful. But despite the calm and sunny weather and the still very good swell, I struggled to really capitalize on the fine conditions.
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