Tuesday, February 15th
It had been a cold and rainy night and when I got up in the morning it was still raining. Temperatures were about 5 C and a westerly wind was blowing. It was very unpleasant bone-chilling weather especially when you live in a van without a proper working heating. But at least there was swell.
That swell was created by a strong depression which was hanging around the North Atlantic close enough to be accompanied with strong westerly winds. Not the best setup for the north facing coasts here – and even worth for the west facing shores of southern France – but there was enough energy in the swell to complete the necessary more than 90 degree turn to reach this east facing beach with sufficient juice.
The local sandbars were obviously well prepared to handle this swell direction and energy and the offshore helped to cleaning up the otherwise rough swell at least in the near vicinity of this beach. The resulting waves were hollow, fast, and generally quite surfable.