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That one hour of change in the tide transformed the un-surfable shorebreak into a beautiful left hand point (with the odd short right) peeling in front of the fantastic background of the white cliffs. A handful of surfers obviously had known how to read the tide charts and the swell forecast and were out sharing the waves.
The wind was blowing from the south as forecasted which meant that at the foot of the high cliffs there was almost no wind at all. The better sets brought lefts starting to break at the outer tip of the rock arch and running all the way to the cobble stone beach. The shallow rock shelf gave the waves perfect form and some speed and punch.
I watched for a while to get an idea about how this wave worked and then went to my van to get ready for a session. As it was still pretty cold – temperatures were in the low single digit Celsius range – I armed myself with 6mm suit, booties and gloves and a more voluminous board to compensate the extra rubber weight (and my poor physical condition).
The paddle out was dry hair – that´s one of the lovely things about point breaks being able to paddle just a few meters away from the ledge and not having to duckdive once on the way to the peak – but the sea was freezing cold (or my wetsuit has some leaks).
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