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Three or four local guys – and a local girl, but she had already been taken out of the game with a cut at her cheek – had the place wired and managed to read the chaotic lineup properly and pick the few waves, that kept open long enough for a decent ride.
But the inside got more and more chaotic with the still rising swell and made it almost impossible to even catch a wave. At the sets that made it to the inside without ending in an undefined wobble, rips started to mess the shoulders. And the rare waves that pretended to be surf-able challenged you with a thrilling race against an often nasty lip which most of the times was won by the wave.
The outer banks were now producing walls that hade close to double-overhead faces but again stayed generally mushy, didn´t break at all or closed out. A few sets were offering ride-able walls though and two brave chargers out there managed to catch a few waves.
The pier which had been full of spectators during the whole – mostly sunny – day was emptying now. So were the lineups. The Med was still giving everything to prove it can deliver decent waves to this coast even with an average swell – for winter season - and is easily capable to shut down the local sandbars. But the sun was disappearing already behind the horizon and nobody would watch the show of the still rising swell, at least during the night.
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Check this gallery for more pics from that day
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