The forecast was really looking good, and I felt a bit sorry for my friends, who had arrived just after a nice run of swell and left the night before the next one would arrive. It also was the first proper high period swell coming from the southern parts of the Atlantic and the local winds were prognosed to blow stiff but with a northerly direction. I was very curious how the south facing coast and particularly my favourite reef of the area would handle this.
It had been late last night, and I slept a little bit longer, which made me become a little bit hectic in the morning. The sun was already high up and I left the campground in a hurry to drive to the beach. Once there I could settle down and have my morning coffee and calmly check the surf. It was sort of pumping, at least for summertime.
The tide was still high, and the swell was breaking with a fairly safe cushion of water over the reefs. Yet, the stiff offshore made sure, that it was all barrels. Very fast barrels though, reluctant to let you in and the stiff wind blowing up the face not helping either. A core crew of locals was out with regular footers Anton Arnason (featured here) and Elli Thor (featured here) chasing the small barrels.