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[Ep03 - The End p76] [Ep03 - The End p78]


Monday, September 7th

I got up at dawn to a cool and foggy morning. A barely perceptible offshore was blowing and I went straight to beach for a check. Nice little waves were breaking and it still was almost empty. I headed back to van, got into the wetsuit, grabbed my longboard and rushed back to the beach. It was small, with the better waves just belly-high, but well formed. I had a couple of fun rides until it got too crowded.

This place is rarely empty, but it seemed to have worsened crowd-wise. The still growing popularity of surfing in France in combination with an abundance – some call it a plague – of surf schools has pretty much turned it into a mass sport. It probably didn´t help that the whole French Atlantic coast from the Spanish border up to Bordeaux had recently been declared Covid risk area and harsh restrictions had been imposed again.

This pretty much left Brittany the only remaining “safe” and accessible part of the coast with a decent chance for surf. The sum of all this was too many people out at sea and it was not the resulting lack of hygienic social distancing that made me decide to call it a day surf-wise. It still was a pity, because the waves stayed fun. But luckily there are quite a few other things in the area which are worth a visit.

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