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Friday, September 11th.

I got up pre-dawn. It was foggy with not the slightest breeze. I headed straight to the beach. A hip high swell was running, but the waves were just breaking ok. The tide wasnt perfect, but the lineup was already pretty populated and there were more and more people coming to the beach. I quickly joined and positioned myself at the outer breaks and thus a little bit away from the pack.

It was already ridiculously crowded when I caught my first set wave and had a long cruisy ride. The wave was very soft, and I had to do some slaloming around the many fellow surfers, but hey, this was summer, and it was warm, and it was good to be out at the ocean!

But the crowd had become unbearable for me and so I finished the session soon. More and more people were arriving at the beach and I had no hope for the crowd to thin out anytime soon. So, I left and drove to Pont lAbb for a quick sightseeing walk and then headed further west to Penhors.

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