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[Ep01 - The Calm] [Ep01 - The Calm p42]


But the sandbars on both sides of the pier managed to milk some surf-able waves out of the tiny swell and I decided to waste no time, went back to the van, dressed in rubber, grabbed my longboard and paddled out to the sandbar north of the pier. This bar is very stable and since years reliably creates some nicely peeling, fairly long running lefts plus a shorter but faster right and therefore is usually very popular amongst local surfers.

Now it was just me and a handful of other elderly guys on longboards. I played the patience card, sat a bit further out in position for the rare larger sets and manged to surf a handful of very nice chest-high lefts. When these precious set waves stopped coming, I went out, changed into dry clothes, and went to a bar for a second breakfast. It came pretty close to the relaxed “Bella Vita” surf experience that makes me come back to this area.

My parking ticket was expiring now and so I head further south to the next pier. Here the sandbars hadn´t been very good in the past years – at least during my visits – but it looked ok now. I paddled out on the south side of the pier and realized that despite looking quite good from shore it was the usual somewhat chaotic surf.

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