|
Getting out was fairly easy when walking / paddling underneath the cliff to the rock shelf which created these perfectly lined up rights. You just had to make sure not to meet a set when passing the reef. Set waves were an issue out in the lineup too, as the bigger ones regularly cleaned the take-off spot for the medium sizes waves. And as the waves were fiercely contested by a very competent local crew, sitting on the safer shoulder was no option when you actually planned to catch a wave.
So, you had to be prepared to take some on the head, which was an additional challenge with a non duckdive-able longboard. I invested quite some work to catch some of the medium sized waves for a while but then decided to stick to the inside left-overs, hoping that the work invested at the outside would get me at least some of the experience needed to surf more successfully in – hopefully – upcoming sessions.
Jens, having it a bit easier on his shortboard when it came to duck-dive set-waves, had a little bit more patience and finally caught a decent mid-sized wave which was running very well. That wave was overdue for him as he had to fly back this afternoon and it was already late in the morning.
continue >>>
|
