Sunday Nov. 5th
I woke up an hour before dawn to a thunderstorm and torrential rain. The fine late-summer weather of the past few days was obviously over. On a surfer´s view: there was finally some action in the atmosphere.
As it was impossible to sleep with all the thunder and the rain banging on the roof of my van, I had a quick coffee and then started the van and headed south. The street was deserted and sometimes semi-flooded with the odd stones and mud washed onto it by the heavy rain.
To my relief the thunderstorm eased up once the road got down to sea level a bit further south and I turned off for the first little bay with possible surf potential at first daylight. In summer this might be a bustling beach with bars and condos but now it was just a half-flooded parking amidst deserted wooden buildings not really fit to withstand winter weather.
I parked the van and waded through the puddles to the beach. The wind was side-offshore, and some first waves were breaking on the sandbars. Unfortunately, the southwest wind who sent these little swell trailers would soon reach this cost too and mess things up with an onshore.